15 September - 24 October 2009

After a long flight from Hong Kong we finally arrived in Auckland, NZ. This was however not our final destination for the day as we had to wait another seven hours for our 'ongoing' flight to Christchurch on the South Island before our adventure in NZ was really about to start.

Our first task was to find a campervan to rent, because as a tourist (but also many Kiwis), whether young or old, rich or poor, you travel through this beautiful country by campervan or at least something that vaguely resembles this. However, picking one that suited our purpose (and budget) was not as easy as it sounds, as there are dozens of rental agencies. What made our choice easier was that the average male Kiwi measures about 1.70m and therefore most campervan beds are only 1.80m long. Not really comfortable when you're 1.92m, like me. After two days of intense searching we decided to go for a 2-berth Backpacker. Although it looked a bit like an aquarium, it was the best one that best suited our needs. As Sharda was 'not completely happy' having to live in an aquarium for two months (and as you might well know she can be very persuasive if she really wants something) on the day of pick-up we asked whether it was still possible to supersize (yes, that's how they call it) our 2-berth for a larger 4-berth motor home. Although really busy due to the Kiwi and Aussie spring holidays, fortunately they had one available. You should have seen her face, I have never seen her happier!

After a shaky start I managed to control the 6m long and 3.2m high vehicle and got it on the right (which is the left) side of the road off to explore Aotearoa (Maori name for NZ). I will not bore you with all the details and geographical facts of our two month trip, but instead will try to give you an impression of how we experienced this lovely country. If not completely satisfied or if you're curious and want to know more, we are happy to share the x-thousand pictures and many hours of stories with you when we're back home in Amsterdam.

One of the things really typical for Nz's spring is the incredibly fast change in weather. One moment the sun is shining brightly, half an hour later you can be surprised by heavy rainfall or even a snowstorm. NZ is also a country of beautiful skies (whether it's night or daytime) with the clouds always moving fast pretty low above the land.

The main reason for the both of us to arrive here already during spring was (no surprise) skiing. Although the ski areas are not as big as in the Alps (most resorts just have 2 or 3 lifts), the mountains are pretty steep and there are great off-piste slopes for even expert skiers with names such as Powder Bowl, Virgin Mile Ridge and Morning Glory. We can recommend both Treble Cone (TC for insiders) and Mount Hutt for a day or two of skiing. The ultimate experience in skiing is however heli-skiing. And although we were often tempted to do something different in this adventure crazy country (you can go heli mountain biking, heli glacier walking, heli whale or dolphin watching and even heli rafting) we decided to keep our adventure within the boundaries of what we know and like best: skiing! After an amazing day with seven runs in the Harris Mountains just north of Wanaka, we celebrated this perfect day with 'a few' brewski's (the local beer) in the Green Toad ski rental shop of Johnny, the dude that joined us during this wicked day, and ended up in a cool dance bar. BTW: if you are ever to visit Wanaka (please do, it is worth it every dime) make sure you won't miss a visit to the local cinema, which shows art house movies and is a cool and relaxing place with comfortable couches and a beetle (the car) to sit on (or in) and with tasteful pizzas during the break.

South Island is all about nature: you can see beautiful turquoise lakes surrounded by steep and snowcapped mountains, Kermit green meadows with heaps and heaps of sheep (fact: South Island has 1 million human inhabitants compared to 35 million sheep), rough seas with steep overhanging cliffs (and courageous Kiwis trying to surf 8m waves in these ice cold waters) the beautiful fiords of Doubtful and Milford Sound and the amazingly green rainforest full of ferns all within one island. I can go on but it's better to watch the pictures.

Although there are not a lot of people around (or maybe because there are not many around) South Island, the ones we met were usually very friendly and open. In the countryside village of Geraldine (just after our first three days on the road) we stopped to buy some organic (just about everything is organic here) fresh fruit and vegetables and ended up in a small cottage style shop, where we bought some souvenirs. The lovely older lady gave us a discount before even asking for one and additionally we even got a nice present for free. Can you imagine we were a bit shocked after Nepal and India, where we had to bargain for every cent?

Another day, when driving along the southern coast we stopped at Cosy Nook Fishing Village. A village however was a bit too much honor for the three shets overlooking the rough seas of Foveaux Street. For a while we enjoyed the stunning scenery and just as we were about to move on we walked into Mark and Jude, a couple in their fifties living there. They immediately invited us in their love nest at the sea. We ended up having some interesting discussions on life and its meaning with these at first sight strange but very warm and open people. After a couple of hours we said goodbye but not before leaving without some beautiful gemstones and Paua shells as presents.

This day turned out to be a day full of nice encounters as just before dawn, when looking for a place to sleep, we walked into the local information centre annex café in Fortrose in the Catlins. After having told us which places to see and what to do, Nigel, the owner invited us and Mark, a Queenstownian staying the weekend for some fishing, for a drink. After a few drinks Mark told us he was not here just for some ordinary fishing, but to catch whitebait. Between September and November many Kiwis go out on the rivers to catch these baby eels, to later cook and fry them omelet style. Surprisingly they taste a bit like sole. They do not only eat these themselves but also sell it as it is an expensive delicacy (c. NZ$20 per 100 gram). Nigel and Mark also explained us that NZ was the centre of the world, which after some laughter from our side, was supported by showing us a political map of the world with NZ exact in the middle. Later Mark proved Kiwis are definitely full of humor when he told us we tourist in the campervans are called 'road maggots' by the locals as we are slow and irritating white creatures on the road. Just before we left Nigel showed us a good wild camping spot to hide for the emerging storm, while Mark was so generous to give us his full whitebait catch of the day (which was about half a kg) so we could have that for dinner.

NZ is also a perfect place to eat fresh food and drink some good wines. During our trip we visited several vineyards and (I am a bit embarrassed to say) almost every meal was accompanied by a fruity Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc or a tasteful Central Otago Pinot Noir. Along the road there are many farmers selling fresh and homemade fruit, vegetables and dairy products. Often there is no one around and you just grap the food and put the money in a box. Along the coast we enjoyed some lovely oysters and mussels (giants compared to their European cousins), crayfish (=lobster), sea urchin, Paua and lots of other delicious seafood. However, probably a bit too much influenced by their British ancestors, they tend to fry all these delicacies, even the oysters! Luckily they provided us with some fresh and raw oysters, although they found us overseas people a bit weird. Also the meat (beef, deer or lamb) tastes better than at home (and costs half) and can compete with the famous Argentinean steaks.

As we allowed ourselves only one restaurant dinner per week, Sharda prepared all these meals in our own campervan 'the happy crab'. And I can tell you I am a lucky guy as she is a damn fine cook! Maybe it looks a bit old-fashioned to you but soon we had divided our daily household tasks: Sharda did the cooking, cleaning and navigation, while I was driving, doing the dishes, filling the water and taking care of the dirty jobs such as disposing of the waste water and emptying the chemical toilet.

Although initially Sharda wasn't really into the camping thing (especially not the big camping grounds with campervans standing close to each other like in car parks), she really started to enjoy it more and more, in particular the wild camping or campings in remote areas with beautiful views and few people. However, the weather made us often return to the more equipped campsites as these had powered sites so we could use our heater. Later on the North Island temperature rose so we could enjoy the remote spots more frequently.

During our trip through this wonderful country we had many encounters with the local wildlife. I told you already about the sheep (we even saw the birth of a lamb next to the road). NZ is also full of possums, which were imported from Australia about a century ago and now are a real plague to the indigenous wildlife. We saw many dead possums on the road and many traps for them near walking trails, but never one still alive. In the mountains we were often visited by the curious and bold Kea, a large cousin of the parrot. You have to be careful with these rascals as they will make a mess of your campervan or steal things from your bags if you are that stupid to not paying attention to them. From a lookout shelter on the rocks in the Catlins we saw the rare and very shy yellow-crested penguin coming ashore during one of many spring storms. A half hour later followed by his partner. In Kaikoura along the pacific coast we decided to go on a whale watching trip. While I was enjoying the sight of two huge sperm whales, Sharda spent this 2.5 hour trip in rough seas examining the bottom of a couple of paper bags.

On various occasions we ran into seals. While the elderly were sunbathing on the rocks, the adolescents were playfully fighting or posing for us human visitors. The coolest encounter with these wonderful animals however was in the Abel Tasman National park, up north on the South Island. As part of a three-day trip we spent a full day exploring the beautiful blue coastal waters of the park by kayak. We paddled to the small Tonga island, which was inhabited by a seal colony. Here we watched the young seals play and swim from up close. One youngster started playing with my paddle and we could even rub his belly. You could see he definitely liked it. The only specie we did not see was the most famous and national animal of NZ, the Kiwi bird. We have searched for it on both South and North Islands but except for a few footsteps on a beach and some sounds in a forest we only saw the road signs warning people for this rare and shy animal. I think they just made him up, like the Monster of Loch Ness.

I can go on and on but will not do that. After reading this story (and watching the pictures) you will wonder why we ever left this place full of wonderful friendly and hospitable people, incredible and diverse nature and awesome wildlife. I will tell you: Not because of the weather, but because of one of the smallest but definitely most irritating animals alive, the notorious sandfly! Along the coast you will find them or if not, they will find you and suck the blood out of you where ever and whenever they can. Although at first the bites do not hurt a lot and don't seem that nasty, it is only after a day or two that they begin to itch and irritate the hell out of you. Oh yeah, the second reason is that is a long long way from home where you guys all are!

Soon we will write you on the North Island and our tramping adventures

X

Jordi and Sharda

ps Pictures will follow later this week